Lovely women dressed in furs walk through town with their small little dogs at their feet. Many of the dogs are also wearing jackets.
I love getting lost and my first night I found myself at a part of town around 5:30 everyone was out walking their dogs, Like 25 dogs in 15 minutes. And most likely 15 furs. My favorite one was one with a matching hat and she looked like a dutch painting of a man from the 17 century. (Notice the little bag of garbage, people place their garbage outside thier doors and the garbage man comes around with big trolly to pick them up)
Spritz time, after checking out the dogs I follow a group of people into a small Osteria, I asked for the same, pointing to a lovely pink Spritz. I wanted it just like his, small. But instead I got a large plus I had never had Spritz and I got the bitter, wow. Took so long to drink I watched everyone coming and going for about an hour, Ciao’s all around.
I always say the light in Venice is different and it is. But now that I am older I realize a lot of it is the pollution from the boats and fires on the mainland burning fields. They don’t allow fires in Venice I found out because of the fire danger, all the buildings so close together and made of wood. I do think that the morning and dusk light are particularly amazing. Especially this trip with the blue skies.
Watching the race of the “witches” men dresses as Le Befana racing on the 6th down the grand cannel in small boats felt like small town fun. A band, speakers, the racers, people practicing in other boats, fun. It went fast glad I was there for the 15 mins it took. “Italy’s traditional celebration includes the tale of a witch known as La Befana who arrives on her broomstick during the night of January 5 and fills the stockings with toys and sweets for the good children and lumps of coal for the bad ones.”
Kids all met after near the fish market and received stockings as gifts from the “Association of Rialto Bridge” I gave a donation and got some Panettone for the road and headed to a traghettii to ride a traghetto across the grand canal. So fun, standing up with the locals as we take the 2 minute ride to the Ca D’oro to check out the exhibition of costume Jewelry.
My favorite part of the Ca D’oro is the amazing mosaic courtyard garden. The whole first level of the building is an open courtyard all mosaic tile. Even the walls had a stone diamond pattern. Small details are so fun, the little lions watching guard from the windows. Windows made with hand blown glass that when you look through them the warp the view beyond into great modern pictures.
I was excited about going to the Peggy Guggenheim, they have anew name I don’t remember and they have expanded the space since I was there last, in 1990. I guess a lot can change and stay the same, in 25 years.
I decided to get the Vaporetto pass and headed out onto the canal for a ride through the grand canal and around by the airport, then to the Giudecca which was cold because of its relation to the sun at that time of day. I ended up at the bell tower at San Giorgio Maggiore. And went up to watch the sunset. It was so cold, I didn’t have enough clothing, but was dedicated to stay till the sun went down. It was a beautiful sunset with a view out to all of Venice.
One of the best parts of this trip to Venice was where I stayed, bedandvenice.it It is a church run guest house on the third floor of an old Nunnery. The nuns in this space used o care for unwed women who had children and then the children after they were born. The space reminded me of old time Italy guest houses, bath down the hall, return your key every time you leave. It was so clean, quiet and nice. Breakfast included with a roof balcony and views out to the bell towers and Saint Marks domes. Such a great find at $40euro a night. (single) Lovely!
I spent one morning taking pictures of the sun rise, getting lost and then very lost, finding my way to a hair dresser. In 1986 I got one of my best hair cuts ever in Italy, so decided to go for it again. I went in and asked if anyone spoke english and Barbara did. So I said do what you like, lets make it short. It was fun, she was great and I am still looking for the right product so it will do what I want and not be soooo frizzy.